Day 3 – Braila, Lunch and Drive to Constanta

Wednesday morning dawned beautifully over the Danube. Anca and I met for breakfast in the restaurant overlooking the river. River traffic was getting busy with tankers and other smaller ships passing by. I learned that the big ships could make it as far as Braila before they have to turn around due to river depths.

At 9:00 a.m. Director Ilie Zanfir met us at the Galati County Library along with members of his administrative team and my interpreter (I called her “Joan”). To be quite honest, today I had a bit of the feeling that a celebrity might feel. On the front announcement easel was a poster advertising my presentation. There had been newspaper articles and much preparation for my visit. Director Zanfir walked me through the library, providing a brief tour of an incredible facility. His pride in his facility was matched by his exuberant passion and enthusiasm. He was a very well respected individual in the city and what we would call in the States, a “mover and shaker” – a very powerful man.

The library was so beautiful it was difficult to describe. Climbing stairways of solid marble we toured each level. On the third level we were moved into the executive office, filled with antiquities and flowers. It was here that I received a briefing on the founding of the library, the benefactor from the 19th century and the legacy this man had left. It occurred to me then that from what I have seen, it seems that Romania went through some sort of cultural renaissance in the mid-late 19th century. Kings established public libraries and wealthy benefactors donated thousands of books and probably the equivalent of millions of dollars to build palaces for the advancement of culture and education.

When I was seated at the conference table, I was presented with a beautiful bouquet of flowers wrapped in delicate mesh netting and tied with silk ribbon. The flowers were beautiful purple long-stemmed mums with white tips and a yellow center. Just lovely. Anca was presented with bouquet of white mums. We felt like queens for the day. We were joined by a number of city dignitaries including Mr. Nicolae Dobrovici Bacalbasa, President of the Culture Commission of the County Council and another top-level official of the county government.

Director Zanfir shared with me older titles he had in his personal library as well as a large guest book that had been keep for over forty years and signed by visiting authors, dignitaries, poets and special guests. I was asked to sign this book and write a special message – which I did at the end of the visit.

I enjoyed learning about the library’s legacy and listening to the many outstanding projects and events the library sponsored. The library is also a publishing house and puts out quarterly magazines. This year they sponsored the 1st Annual Book Festival on the banks of the Danube. Publishers from all over came and set up shop along the river walk in tiny wooden huts. Tens of thousands of patrons visited the vendors and met with authors, purchased books, witnessed book launches and were immersed in current literature. It was an event that our host was extremely proud of and with good reason. I was very impressed.

At 10:00 a.m. we descended the flights of marble steps to the public meeting room. There were approximately 100 librarians waiting for the presentation. My new friend Monika, part of the Biblionet team sat at the computer and advanced my slides as I progressed through the presentation. My interpreter had been given a “heads up” by Dragos, the Director of the Braila County Library, that she would have to hustle to keep up with my speech. (Am I that difficult to interpret? I think I must be. My passion overtakes me and perhaps that is difficult to translate – but, all turned out great in the end.) The Director gave a lengthy introduction about my life and me. I even heard the name “Fred”. What in the world had he said??? I would find out later.

This was such an important occasion for the city that the city officials were seated with me at the head table. They had to be excused about 30 minutes into my presentation because the local newspaper was donating over $50,000 dollars to the library. The library has an impeccable reputation in the city and is extremely well respected and supported at all levels.

I shared the message of Management, Advocacy and Marketing. Most of the audience were from the rural county libraries and most were the only staff member. Many libraries had no public computer. Many were not automated. However, at least a dozen were chosen for the first stage of Biblionet… the national online library computer project still in its infancy. This program will change the lives in the small communities. I could tell that the branch managers did not know what to expect. These programs last about two hours. I give the participants a brief break to stretch their legs, but they all laugh when I start counting down to the beginning of the next session… 10 – 9 – 8 – 7 - … We have a lot of fun.

The beginning of each message I share the three key ingredients for success in any venture: Passion, Vision and Imagination. The message of the importance of what they do in their communities – the service they provide – and the fact that this is more of a career than a job is the foundation of the entire presentation. I cannot express enough the importance of intellectual freedom – a new concept – for this new democracy. I provide specific scenarios of parents and special groups wanting to censor titles, children not being allowed to check out certain books, etc. Trying to explain the concepts of freedom of access and privacy are best taught through examples of potential scenarios. You can tell when the audience “gets it”. A collective light bulb shines bright. I am confident that although they may all feel overwhelmed, they leave with a new confidence and enlarged sense of value for both what they do and their libraries.

As we were leaving the library for lunch, we watched a long line of staff and even security personnel lined up in an assembly line of sorts along the driveway. They were unloading a large truck of books, passing bound bundles to one another. These books – thousands of copies – were donated from a publisher. The publishers always donate books to this library. The library in turn distributes copies to the rural county libraries. I thought it would be easier with some sort of book cart or even hand dolly, but there was something ceremonial about the way the books were being hand carried from the truck into the library – a sign of respect for the gift and the books in general perhaps?

Niku drove Director Zanfir, Anca, my interpreter Joan, and me to “La Neacsu” restaurant in another area of Galati. As we entered, Zanfir happened to see the owner of the restaurant stting outside. We were introduced and then preceded up three flights of solid white marble stairs to the top floor of the establishment. This was a typical Romania restaurant with native dishes. The walls were adorned with wild boar skins, traditional Romanian plates and décor. One wall was a solid woodcarving depicting a rural scene.

The server surmised I was American and brought me a menu with photographs of the dishes. That was very helpful – especially with Anca explaining what each dish was. I chose a crock of white chicken pieces, ham pieces with boiled potatoes in a heavy cream and butter sauce topped with grated cheeses and seared under the broiler to a golden brown. Oh, yum – very rich and delicious. The owner sent up some appetizers and we also toasted with a shot of a traditional Romanian liqueur. Whew… if this was the mild stuff, I shutter to think what the more potent staff was like. We enjoyed hearty conversation and lots of laughs. The Director was interested in everything from budgets of large city libraries in America, to salary ranges, benefits, and retirement pensions. We laughed about so much. He said, "I could make your Fred jeolous by taking you to a romantic dinner." I answered that my Fred was a strong man and he (Zanfir) better be careful! We all laughed. I wonder if Fred's ears were burning? Director Zanfir, when he introduced me, had mentioned cats, dogs, farm, Fred... he had a lot of information about me in his introduction.

We bid each other a fond goodbye. The Director had a car dispatched to transport Joan and him back to the library. We traveled on to Constanta with Monika from Biblionet following in her car.

After that filling lunch, I was ready to nap in the back seat, but tried to keep my eyes open. I did not want to miss a thing. This would be a 3-4 hour drive through the countryside, an old mountain range and on to the Black Sea city of Constanta.

I had been wondering if there was a bridge over the Danube, since I knew we had to cross at some point. My question was answered as we drove onto a ferry. Oh, my. This is different. We backed up into our spot and watched as other vehicals drove on board for the 4:00 p.m. launch across the river. I saw a huge semi truck fully loaded. “He’s not bringing that truck on here, is he?” I thought. Then another truck drove on, “That truck won’t fit, will it?” I wondered. Then, a large, fully loaded tour bus squeezed on. At least I knew how to swim. I got out of the van and planned my escape route in case the unsinkable – I mean unthinkable happened. Anca, Monica and me stood on the side of the main cabin next to the railing. We chatted and laughed and before we new it we were docking on the other side.

The trucks barely made it off, but as cattle funneling through a small opening, we all drove off, single file, and continued on with the journey. Anca and Niku shared that they had never been in this part of the country before. It was quite an adventure. The road was a two-lane country road with many bumps, but still paved and lined. A row of trees were planted on each side, lining the road in a picturesque way. Niku explained that the trees were planted after the 1st World War so airplanes could not land on the roads. Very interesting. That made sense.

We continued to pass more horse wagons, very primitive villages and fields of harvested crops. The mountains in the distance got closer and closer. I learned later, that the homes and/or gates that were painted a bright blue identified the family as Russian in these villages. The blue paint was a distinct mixture and very difficult to duplicate. The local residents were going about their late-afternoon business, many older folks were sitting on benches and just visiting.

As the sun dropped lower and lower in the west, we passed through miles and miles of open land with the mountains rising up to our east. We passed farmers with their wagons and a number of mud huts. Many times there were goat and sheep herds next to the highway. Always there was the lone shepherd or goat herder with his walking stick and his donkey, keeping watch over his flock.

As with the case on the way to Braila, every now and then I saw a huge nest on top of a telephone pole… perched very precariously. “What in the world?” I thought. It was as large, if not larger, than an eagle’s nest and perched on a pole that was like a toothpick. What was this? It was a stork nest. Many of the locals actually help the stork by reinforcing his nest with sticks and wood. I am constantly surprised by what is around the corner. I really want to close my eyes and sleep, but I force them to stay open.

As we get closer to the city, we notice the first modern windmill. And soon we pass what is most definitely a wind farm. Dozens of mills already constructed and others in various stage of construction stand as sentinels on the western hills. The modern world is quickly integrating itself into the rural countryside.

We arrive in the big port city of Constanta at dusk, four hours after we left Galati. The city is bustling. We drive all the way through to the Black Sea, where Niku parks the car and lets us get out and breathe in the sea air before we go to our hotel. Far away we can see the lights of many large ships waiting to come into port.

Our hotel is the French chain, Ibis. An economy hotel that offers value, the Ibis is very modern with not a lot of fluff, but comfortable beds, free Internet, big bath area and large working desk. The air-conditioning works, but I also cracked open my window to smell the sea air. I hear dogs barking… the ever present dogs – that were everywhere along the road to this city. I must have seen thousands of stray dogs so far.

A quick sandwich brought to my room and I fell to sleep almost immediately. Up early now at 2:00 a.m. It is 3:44 now so I will close and post this and go back to bed. I have an early wake-up at 6:00 a.m. More meetings and another digital video conference this morning. PaPa! (Bye, bye)

Tuesday, October 6 -- Countryside and Braila

The day has been so busy and full of new things; it is hard to know where to begin. After checking out of the hotel, I was picked up by Niku and Anca for our travels northeast to Braila. I love people-watching out of the car window and had hoped to take notes on what I saw. But I just held on and prayed… another white-knuckled drive. I feel safe with Niku; it is the other drivers that scare the bejeebers out of me. But, I did see some priceless moments. These are just quick moments one can notice, if you watch and pay attention.

Through the busy thoroughfares of Bucharest, the narrow streets zigzagging through neighborhoods with gated yards and shops, the people are up and busy with their day. One scene: two old women in head scarves and layers of colorful clothes – one on one side of a wrought iron gate, the other standing on the sidewalk – a black and white cat perched on top of the gate – the old women are feeding the cat, one morsel from this one – one from the other.

Another scene: a beautiful, tall young woman in high-healed boots, short skirt and low-cut blouse crosses an intersection. An old, stooped over woman wearing a black hat and black coat, and walking with a cane, crosses in the opposite direction. But when she gets past the young woman, she turns around and stares. She lifts her cane as if to say, “What are you wearing? You foolish girl!!” She continues on her way, turning back once more and shakes her head.

Ordinary people going about their daily business – waiting for the electric trolley, waiting for the train, walking down the sidewalk, talking to neighbors; life is busy in Bucharest this Tuesday morning. The strike from yesterday is over.

We wind our way out of the city and see less and less of apartments and shops and more of industry. “We are heading to one of Romania’s two highways,” explained Anca. Romania only has two four-lane, limited access highways.

The speed picked up once we entered the fast-moving traffic and we immediately drove into fog. I closed my eyes. I’m not sure if I was praying for safe travels or sleeping; maybe a bit of both. We left the 4-lane and traveled on a two-way, two lane tree-lined road - very picturesque. The further out into the country we drove, the further back in time we seemed to travel. There were many, many farmers driving wagons with one horse pulling their load. In the center of a field I could see one wagon with the horse unhitched and the farmer working, sometimes alone, sometimes with a bit of help.

Anca explained what I was seeing. After the revolution (1989), the government returned the land that had been taken back to the owners. These farms were small and the farmer cannot make enough to purchase farm equipment. They farm it by hand, using a horse and wagon and other animals to bring in the harvest. They work very hard and although they would like to use tractors and plows, they just do not have the resources. There are a few farms with tractors. They were harvesting potatoes and other crops. The crops we saw were sunflowers, potatoes, grapes and corn.

I watched as a farmer cut his corn stalks one by one and placed them in a pile. Then, he would drive his horse to where he was working and pile the stalks on the wagon. I wonder what my Paulding cousins would think about harvesting their 3,000 acres, by hand, plant by plant. A very common site on the road was a wagon piled high with cornstalks, moving slowly down the wagon path parallel to the road. The wagon path was badly rutted in areas and the farmers would move to the blacktopped road. This would cause all sorts of havoc for the drivers.

Where I saw flocks of dairy cows or sheep, I also saw a lone shepherd or cattle herder. They stayed in the field with their flocks and herds. Dairy cows would be tethered with long chains to graze along the road. Some farmers would bring a cow with them to the fields, tied to the back of the wagon. There was more than one colt trotting behind a mare while she was pulling a wagon. The worn and tired faces of these farmers was like a mirror to their past.

The villages we passed through were old and charming. Poverty was rampant, but the beautiful flowers that were planted in gardens and window boxes brightened the homes. Bright paint would also be used on the privacy walls and details of the homes. Colorful clothes would be hung in uniform patters on lines to dry. Many old cottages and shacks were abandoned and in disrepair. Anca explained that people leave the country looking for work in the city. They just walk away from their homes. There is no "renewal" or reuse of the older homes, businesses and industry. They stand as rusted and tired monuments of a time gone by.

The traffic on the two-lane road was a force to be reckoned with. I know how cautious we are in the U.S. (well, most of us) when passing. The rule here is “go for it”. It really does not matter how close the oncoming auto is – if a car is going too slow, a driver will zip around, many times missing oncoming cars and trucks by inches. I think all these drivers could be very skilled in one of our NASCAR races. They are daring and experienced. I do not know how many times I gasped. I tried not to look and when I did I would find myself asking (quietly), “No, Niku… don’t go for it, there is not room. Oh, no, He is not going to pass now, is he? The cars are so close. Is he crazy?” I finally stopped looking completely and put my trust where it belonged – in God. (God can guide Niku.)

I have to admit that I did think about my family and remembered the U.S. Department of State policy regarding returning bodies to the U.S. (I was covered.)

As we passed through these villages, I wondered, is there a library here? Do the citizens use their library? Do they even know what it is? I know there are libraries in the smallest of hamlets, and I would have loved to stop and explore, but we were behind schedule and had to get to our destination.

There were huts built with cornstalks perhaps 9 feet by 9 feet square. I wondered what they were for. Perhaps if it rained, the farmer could take shelter? As we drive through one village, an open shop revealed an anvil and blacksmithing tools. Of course, there are so many horses; there must be a blacksmith. I also saw one team of oxen hitched to a wagon and a wagon with a donkey team.

We arrived in Braila and met the Braila County Library director, Dragos Neagu. He gave us a tour of the library. Their other library was destroyed in an earthquake a few decades ago. They are rebuilding, but meantime are housed in a complex that use to be a hotel, theater, gymnastic training facility, restaurant and disco. In the reading room, the patron looks in the card catalog (automated) and brings the request to the librarian. The bulk of the collection is shelved in closed stacks. And, the books are shelved by “size” to save space. They are organized first by size (1A, 1B, 1C, etc.) and then by the accession number or number that identifies their purchase. The county library also digitizes old newspapers. They are in the process of retrospective conversion of the collection so that they an migrate from a DOS-based system to a web-based. It was all very interesting. I also find it worth mentioning again that there is no accessibility for those who use wheelchairs. Stairs everywhere. Very few if any ramps. No elevators. You have to have a complex more than four stories to be considered for an elevator.

From the library, we drove to the center of the city of Braila. Actually it would be the center of the base of a semi-circle beginning at the Danube River. The Ottoman Empire designed the roads like this. The roads were laid out in semi-circle designs, parallel to each other and circling out from the river like ripples in a pond. Dragos shared interesting tips about this area. Braila is supposedly still listed on the Chicago Grain Exchange as historically relevant. At one time, it was one of the largest exporters of grain. This city was important in a number of areas for the development of the country and the world.

We explored the old city where the main branch public library was located. This building, built in the 1800s has been over the years used as private residence, offices, schools and now a library. The ceilings are high with newly repainted gilding and floral designs. I cannot imagine working in such a beautiful building. Wait a minute, I DO work in such a beautiful building! It is just not next to the Danube River.

There is a charming children’s library as well as a section for those students who are studious (complete with non-fiction and reference titles). Also, they have a locked room with old manuscripts. A staff member showed me one of their oldest titles – dated from the mid 17th century. It was apparently a religious book – I am unsure of the language. Also shared was a very rare Italian title with engravings. I believe it was either 18th century or early 19th century. Very fascinating.

We walked out on a balcony and Dragos pointed out the courtyard. There was an architectural dig going on. This is where they want to build the new library, but they have to be cleared by the historical department. Dragos explained that underground there were very large tunnels that the Turks had built. Some of them were big enough for two wagons to pass in opposite directions. He is hoping, if the historical dig finds a tunnel, it could be incorporated as a part of the new library – as an historic exhibit. There are no maps or charts outlining where all the tunnels are located.

Dogs were everywhere. A little guy stood in the open door of the library. There he was, silhouetted as if this was his family home. Puppies were outside. I think mama was stretched out on the archaeological dig.

We walked through the courtyard and to the American Cultural Library. This library houses American fiction and non-fiction. The collection and library was funded in part by a Rotary group in Michigan. Dragos said they are in dire need of new American books. I took a photo of the Rotary pennant and will send it to the club.

We next made our way down to the banks of the Danube. We ate on a retrofitted ship that was now the “Swing” restaurant. Steps to the top level were narrow and steep. Never on our walks did I ever see any handicapped accessibility. Not in the library, not in this restaurant, not even in the embassy.

After a filling lunch (I ordered pizza and took ¾ of it in a “to go” box), Niku drove us back to the county library where about 50 rural librarians were waiting for my afternoon presentation. Today’s subjects would be management, advocacy and marketing. Poor Dragos translated for me. He had his work cut out for him. He was worn out by the end of the 2-hour presentation. We laughed many times when he struggled for the right words. Many in the audience would tell him how something translated. It was so sweet. I know he was exhausted after the speech, but he was sincerely in good spirits and very attentive.

The concept of managing a library professionally was a new concept for many. Most just came to work as a job – checking books in, checking them out. I shared what a powerful job they had and how the public library will change lives. I impressed upon them the importance of having a foundation of passion, vision and imagination. Many examples of successful advocacy events were offered. I encouraged them to introduce themselves to all of their city officials – if they do not already know them. “Hello, I am Anca and I am the local librarian. Do you have a library card?” They all laughed and seemed excited that they could be important enough to talk to a county official. Well, the advocacy seed was planted. They are encouraged to develop their program for youth – the youth would be tomorrow’s advocates. Many other strategies were shared.

I think I overwhelmed and “wowed” them at times, but we still had many laughs. Anca explained that this is exactly what the group needed. They needed to learn how to professionally answer a reference question (conduct a reference interview, cite their source, etc.); they needed to learn about customer service and the new concept of intellectual freedom. They seemed to be inspired by the possibilities. I think I convinced them the importance of thinking of their jobs as important careers and the library as a place that can change lives. At least that seed was planted, too.

After warm goodbyes, Niku drove us to the nearby city of Galati where we checked into the Vega Hotel. We strolled down the nearby neighborhood park that consisted of a long cobbled-stone area with trees, benches and concrete tables with seats and attached marble chess boards. This was a place where one can study the faces of old Romania. Men playing chess -- others gathered around. Other men playing backgammon, and what looked like mahjong. Ladies sitting on benches discussing their day. Grandmothers with young children tugging on their skirts. And of course, the dogs. Lots and lots of dogs. I made the mistake of petting a dog on the porch of the hotel and she started following me. I know I would not be able to resist too many of those brown eyes and wet noses if I lived here.

Once again, at the end of a long day, I was too pooped to go dancing or clubbing… or even walk across the street to eat at a restaurant on the Danube. I enjoyed my cold pizza from the afternoon, ice from the bar and two “Coca Cola Lights” from the corner market kiosk.

Now I am sleepy again, so I will close this blog and go back to bed. It is 2:10 a.m. In the morning we meet with the Galati County Library Director and the president of the Culture Commission of the County Council. I have a two-hour morning presentation on management, advocacy and marketing. Then a lunch at a local restaurant and on to Constanta, a 3-4 hour drive. My hotel for tomorrow night will be on the Black Sea.

Each moment is better then the last and around each corner is a new surprise. I wonder what tomorrow (today) will bring. Time will tell.

Monday, October 5th -- Final Post of the Day

Just woke from a 3-hour nap. It is 12:07 a.m. on Tuesday morning. When trying to take in everything from today (Monday, October 5), I actually find myself at a loss for words. I enjoyed a breakfast in the main dining room of the Hilton. The breakfast buffet was the largest I have ever seen – both cold buffet and hot. So much to choose from including fruits, cheeses, breads, cereals, yogurts, and a variety of cold meats including shrimp. The hot buffet included pancakes, breaded chicken sausages (wasn’t brave enough), pork sausages, bacon, scrambled eggs, hard-boiled eggs, and the chef was there to make a hot omelet to your order. Just noticed I spent a lot of time on the food. Hmmm.

Anca and my Embassy driver, Niku, picked me up by 8:30 a.m. The drive to the Embassy library was another white-knuckled affair. “The traffic not too bad today,” explained Niku. “Dah, dah, (yes, yes)” agreed Anca. “There is a national strike today.” What??? I thought?

Apparently all police, teachers, traffic cops, etc. were on strike for this one-day. “The traffic could have been much, much worse,” continued Niku. “The children have no school today so that traffic is not on the road,” said Anca. Wow. If this is a “light day” of traffic, I shutter to see a real rush hour. (I’d have my chance later in the day.)

Upon arrival at the Embassy library (another building separate from the U.S. Embassy) I was taken through security. Although I was expected, security is still tight, lots of police outside. Always have to show my passport.

Met in the morning with Julie O’Reagan, the Cultural Affairs Officer as well as attended a briefing by National Library General Director Elena Tirziman. The National Library is Romania’s equivalent of the Library of Congress – but with more of an active role in the structure of libraries in the country. Under the government wing of the Ministry of Culture, the National Library is on the top of the pyramid of library organization, with the tiniest of local library branches being at the bottom. The National Library has many purposes, one of which is the preservation of historical documents. They have rapidly outgrown their allotted space and are in the process of building a new National Library, which will be the largest national library in the world – over 10 stories high with two additional underground. They should move into the new facility within three years.

Additional briefings with IREX Biblionet Program Officer Daniela Draghici and Anca Rapeanu, Library Innovation Specialist provided information about the visionary program of connecting all public libraries in Romania via high-speed Internet and computers – with reference databases being a future goal. Biblionet will also provide as a clearinghouse for continued education for library staff living in isolated areas. The closest thing in America that compares is the Ohio Public Library Information Network (OPLIN) – except imagine OPLIN on a national level. I have seen first hand the impact OPLIN has had on the citizens of Ohio – and they have not just come out of the grips of Communism. I cannot imagine the tremendous impact this resource will have on the citizenry of Romania. It will truly be life changing.

Both Daniela and Anca R. are dynamic, visionary and passionate workers for this program. Their enthusiasm is contagious and their vision is spreading. The attempt now – before a possible new President is elected in November, to ensure that Biblionet is written into law – secure and sustainable funding. Sounds familiar. Anca R. is a young vibrant woman with cropped red hair and an incredible smile. Daniela was running a bit late, but arrived in a flurry – with her vest, tie, funky clothes, purple spiked hair and absolutely flawless English. Together they are a force to be reckoned with – My kind of people! We connected immediately.

Daniela shared stories that during Communism, they were not allowed to read books. She said they would find books, photo copy them and pass them around. She remembers reading a worn photocopy of Orwell’s 1984 with a flashlight under the covers. Her story reminds me that you cannot extinguish the human spirit and can-do attitude with an iron fist government. Knowledge and the light of information will always find a way.

After meeting other members of the Embassy staff, I proceeded to conduct my first Digital Video Conference (DVD). I had a technology specialist that took care of all the bells and whistles. On the screen were librarians from three remote areas. There were close to 100 locally in the room. This number increased each day as word of this presentation made it’s way around Bucharest. Many of the audience members at the Embassy were from the University Library and the Metropolitan Library (the main public library of Bucharest) – hardly rural public libraries, but they were interested none-the-less.

My translator was another Anca – Anca Ionescu PhD. She was a conference interpreter in English, French, Russian, Spanish, Czech, Bulgarian, Polish, and Slovak. Her other job is as Professor of Foreign Language at the University of Bucharest. She’s my new sister. We laughed and got along wonderfully. It took me a while to get use to another voice behind me, but soon we got into a rhythm that helped the interpretation be true to the spirit. Anca the translator loves cats. She says… “I have so many. Well, they are strays but they stay – probably because I feed them. But, I always let them go… in my backyard. I get the females fixed. Not the males. What are they going to do without the ladies?” She shared photos of one of her huge cats she had saved on her camera. I was glad I had some cat bookmarks to give her. Cat people just “understand” each other. I found a kindred spirit – one of many from the day.

The session in the morning and afternoon were the same – Youth and Adult Services and Marketing. We all laughed. The questions were very good – one gentleman from the Bucharest Metropolitan Library, after I shared basic concepts of free access and intellectual freedom – asked, “how do you provide free access to all ages when some of the materials is obviously not appropriate for children?” His question was a bit more in depth, but basically that is how it is translated. After I thanked him for his question, I talked about the constant challenge it is – especially in rural and smaller libraries – to protect the rights of children and their access to information. I discussed parental responsibility and community standards. I shared that in rural and small communities the opinions will be different then that of urban libraries. And, I shared that even among colleagues in the same profession – we would be in disagreement at times. But, full freedom of access to information is the goal we strive for. We all do the best we can. A second question from a remote location was also about Intellectual Freedom and the censorship of violent fairy tales, “should we edit the story about Snow White so it is not so violent to young children?” I explained basic concepts of storytelling, that the storyteller has to acknowledge the age and comprehension level of the audience and that there was no “storytelling police” who would come and arrest them if they changed it up a bit. I also let them know that there are a variety of versions of the traditional fairy tales that are more age-appropriate for younger children.

I found it interesting that both questions referred to Intellectual Freedom – a fact I was sure was impacted by the new freedoms in Romania and the struggle to identify how one transitions from a Communist state to a Democratic state.

The reception for the program was tremendous and reaffirmed that the language barrier may separate librarians and library staff, but somehow, our passions still shine through and we understand each other.

Lunch was at the Burebista restaurant – a Renaissance-themed restaurant with wait-staff dressed in period costume. Wild game and animals were stuffed and mounted on the walls. I felt like Robin Hood would gallop in any minute with a bloody deer thrown over his saddle… but, he never did. The menu included everything from wild-boar meatballs to duck livers and everything in-between. One of my hosts ordered a trout. It was one of the largest trout I had ever seen – and I promise – his eyeballs were staring at me. I got a photo of him. I ordered grilled chicken and country potatoes. Better safe than sorry. The menu and restaurant are based on the Romania before the Romans conquered. It was called Dacia and the people were called Daci (pronounced “Dutch”). The main automobile in Romania is the Dacia. The restaurant is across the street from the heavily guarded U.S. Embassy – our next stop.

Security to get inside the main U.S. Embassy complex was very tight. I was glad to see it. You have to have your paperwork cleared in advance before you can enter. And, although my hosts had done so, it was still misplaced – So, it was a case of “who do you know”. One phone call and an agent came down from the offices and secured our entrance. The name “Susan Pieper” had a lot of research attached to it. I’m glad my life hasn’t been too exciting and nothing was “flagged”. I had to leave my camera in security. You are not allowed to take photos of any of the embassies.

The U.S. Embassy is in a restored villa. Absolutely gorgeous with carved wooded staircase, marble inlaid walls, high ceilings with feline gargoyle accents. The U.S. Embassy is spread out throughout this area of Bucharest, so they are building a new embassy northeast of the city. This will help with security. The streets in Bucharest are narrow and congested and probably a security nightmare. Imagine taking all the traffic from L.A. and trying to put it on streets as narrow and curvy as Lombard Street in San Francisco. Now, imagine everyone trying to whiz by and pass. Now imagine cars parked on either side of the narrow road in any space they can fit. Now imagine pedestrians everywhere. Now, multiply that image by 100 and maybe you’ll have a picture of traffic in Bucharest.

My credentials were checked many times and my passport was left at the Marine checkpoint. I was issued a visitor’s badge and we proceeded to meet with the Deputy Chief of Mission, Jeri Guthrie-Corn. Her office is next to the U.S. Ambassador’s. Matter of fact, we had to sit and wait outside her office as she was meeting with the ambassador. His schedule was very busy. I wanted to pop in and say “hey” since he was from Alabama, but I guess you just don’t to that at a U.S. Embassy. Oh well. Meeting with Deputy Guthrie-Corn was an honor. She was very interested in hearing about my presentations to the rural librarians. She is aware of Biblionet and is a staunch supporter. We were running late and short on time, but I was honored to have been able to meet and talk with her.

On the way out I stopped at the Marine post to fetch my passport. I asked if I could have some sort of souvenir to remember my visit. He ended up selling me an awesome t-shirt designed by the Marine post and two U.S. Embassy in Romania coins. Cost me 40.00 American dollars – but he was so cute, how could I resist. The proceeds from selling these items helps fund the Marine Birthday Ball in November. The Marines are the oldest of our military branches. Each November they celebrate with a ball. The balls are staggered as other marines come in and take their place at the post so they can “party”. All embassy staff is invited in Bucharest, but most of the Marine Balls around the world are by invitation only. Dress blues and long gowns are the dress for the evening. Oh to be a fly on the wall. I felt my donation helped to serve my country – if only in the teeniest way.

We made it back just in time for me to begin the afternoon digital video conference. The session was the same as the morning – but with different audiences. The afternoon groups were truly from rural and isolated small libraries. They were a wonderful audience. I brought “cat in the hat” hats and gave them away as door prizes. They had no clue as to what a “door prize” was. What fun! I taught them how to use the hat as a story time hat – that when the hat was on, they had license to be crazy and silly. It was great!

Lots of laughter, lots of photo ops, even some autographs… tons of fun. I learned so much from them. That although the funding does not exist, for many, the passion does. Some libraries are vibrant community centers with strong children’s programs – but it is the result of volunteers and the library staff painting and spending their own funds. Many libraries are providing bare minimum services. One even has the books behind glass – to keep them from getting dusty. There is a great amount of work to be done in Romania’s small public libraries – but great potential. The seeds are planted and visionary programs are being implemented. I have great confidence that the Romania people will enjoy a strong public library system in a matter of a few years.

Other items of interest I discovered: They do not know “Goodnight Moon” by Brown. They do not know “Cat in the Hat” by Seuss, they do not have access to the wonderful variety of bookmarks we have in the U.S. through our library vendors. But they do have a heart for librarianship.

Niku brought me back to my hotel by 7:00 p.m. where I ordered room service and took a nap for a few hours. I’ll head back to bed now. It is 1:28 a.m. on Tuesday morning. I’ll still get about 5 hours sleep. Tomorrow I check out and head to Braila. Niku picks me up at 8:30 a.m.!

Sunday, October 4th! Arrival in Bucharest.

Flight on British Airways was smooth into Romania. The landscape, as we descended into Bucharest, looked like a patchwork crazy quilt. Square and rectangular blocks of different colored stripes – wonder what the crops are? Some looked purple, some green, some blue, some brown, some yellow… the countryside was dotted with villages and small towns. The mountains were beautiful.

As the plane taxied to the terminal, it looked as though the airport was in dire need of some TLC. Two large jets, sans engines, were just parked in the grass next to the taxi way. Like the beginnings of a jet junkyard. Weird. A large billboard confirmed that the International Airport was going through major modernization. Stable and consistent funding is still difficult to secure for any of the urban renewal projects. I get the impression that there is so much to be done, that it is difficult to know where to begin.

Through customs, the Romanian officer smiled and asked me where I was from. “Ohio.” I answered. “No, you can’t be. We have no flights from there,” he laughed. “Oh, okay… London.” He laughed again and asked, “So, you think you like me?” Being the ever-friendly American, I answered, “Sure. You’re the first smiling face I have seen.” He laughed, gave me my passport and waved me through.

My luggage arrived safe and sound – good sign. Eduard, my driver, was waiting outside of the terminal along with a lot of other drivers – another good sign. As he drove me through the streets of Bucharest, (a white-knuckled drive), we tried to converse in his broken English and my small amount of Romanian. “We have dogs. A problem,” he explained as I pointed to a pack of roaming dogs. “Why?” I asked. “The Government will not do anything about them.” Apparently dogs have been roaming the city for years, living on what they can find. It is so strange to see so many. Weaving in and out of cars, Eduard swerved to avoid hitting a stopped car that had just parked in the middle of the lane. “Parking,” he said, “our second problem.” Mental note – too many homeless dogs – not enough parking spaces.

It is hard to describe this city. There are ruinous buildings next to new construction. The architecture in many places had been beautiful in its day, but was in need of repair. On Embassy row, ambassadors’ residences, beautiful mansions will be next to unoccupied mansions overgrown with boarded windows.

The city looks tired and old. It looked like it had come through a revolution and was trying desperately to become vibrant and modern – which is the truth. Twenty years ago, the country did go through a revolution and since the fall of communism, it is taking time to rebuild and modernize this great capital.

Years of hardship seem to be etched on the faces of the older people. It was gray and rainy as we drove to the hotel, and this just added to the depressing feel. Yet, as the splashes of orange, yellow and red painted buildings add color to a dreary landscape – it is the same way the new construction, the modern services add optimism to Bucharest.

There is a large park in the middle of the city. Even though it was raining, families, couples, singles, were parking and visiting their park. The park is wooded with walking paths and benches. That is all. But the Romanians flock to this oasis of green and peace – a contrast next to the stark realities of urban life.

Another interesting aspect of this growing city was the amount of wire. Telephone poles connected dozens and dozens of wires - the excess hanging in loops on each pole. I asked Eduard about all the wires. “The Internet,” he answered.

Just got a call from my U.S. Embassy in Romania contact, Anca. She will meet me in the morning at about 8:15 or so, then on to the American consulate and as she said “the presentations begin!”