Day 3 – Braila, Lunch and Drive to Constanta

Wednesday morning dawned beautifully over the Danube. Anca and I met for breakfast in the restaurant overlooking the river. River traffic was getting busy with tankers and other smaller ships passing by. I learned that the big ships could make it as far as Braila before they have to turn around due to river depths.

At 9:00 a.m. Director Ilie Zanfir met us at the Galati County Library along with members of his administrative team and my interpreter (I called her “Joan”). To be quite honest, today I had a bit of the feeling that a celebrity might feel. On the front announcement easel was a poster advertising my presentation. There had been newspaper articles and much preparation for my visit. Director Zanfir walked me through the library, providing a brief tour of an incredible facility. His pride in his facility was matched by his exuberant passion and enthusiasm. He was a very well respected individual in the city and what we would call in the States, a “mover and shaker” – a very powerful man.

The library was so beautiful it was difficult to describe. Climbing stairways of solid marble we toured each level. On the third level we were moved into the executive office, filled with antiquities and flowers. It was here that I received a briefing on the founding of the library, the benefactor from the 19th century and the legacy this man had left. It occurred to me then that from what I have seen, it seems that Romania went through some sort of cultural renaissance in the mid-late 19th century. Kings established public libraries and wealthy benefactors donated thousands of books and probably the equivalent of millions of dollars to build palaces for the advancement of culture and education.

When I was seated at the conference table, I was presented with a beautiful bouquet of flowers wrapped in delicate mesh netting and tied with silk ribbon. The flowers were beautiful purple long-stemmed mums with white tips and a yellow center. Just lovely. Anca was presented with bouquet of white mums. We felt like queens for the day. We were joined by a number of city dignitaries including Mr. Nicolae Dobrovici Bacalbasa, President of the Culture Commission of the County Council and another top-level official of the county government.

Director Zanfir shared with me older titles he had in his personal library as well as a large guest book that had been keep for over forty years and signed by visiting authors, dignitaries, poets and special guests. I was asked to sign this book and write a special message – which I did at the end of the visit.

I enjoyed learning about the library’s legacy and listening to the many outstanding projects and events the library sponsored. The library is also a publishing house and puts out quarterly magazines. This year they sponsored the 1st Annual Book Festival on the banks of the Danube. Publishers from all over came and set up shop along the river walk in tiny wooden huts. Tens of thousands of patrons visited the vendors and met with authors, purchased books, witnessed book launches and were immersed in current literature. It was an event that our host was extremely proud of and with good reason. I was very impressed.

At 10:00 a.m. we descended the flights of marble steps to the public meeting room. There were approximately 100 librarians waiting for the presentation. My new friend Monika, part of the Biblionet team sat at the computer and advanced my slides as I progressed through the presentation. My interpreter had been given a “heads up” by Dragos, the Director of the Braila County Library, that she would have to hustle to keep up with my speech. (Am I that difficult to interpret? I think I must be. My passion overtakes me and perhaps that is difficult to translate – but, all turned out great in the end.) The Director gave a lengthy introduction about my life and me. I even heard the name “Fred”. What in the world had he said??? I would find out later.

This was such an important occasion for the city that the city officials were seated with me at the head table. They had to be excused about 30 minutes into my presentation because the local newspaper was donating over $50,000 dollars to the library. The library has an impeccable reputation in the city and is extremely well respected and supported at all levels.

I shared the message of Management, Advocacy and Marketing. Most of the audience were from the rural county libraries and most were the only staff member. Many libraries had no public computer. Many were not automated. However, at least a dozen were chosen for the first stage of Biblionet… the national online library computer project still in its infancy. This program will change the lives in the small communities. I could tell that the branch managers did not know what to expect. These programs last about two hours. I give the participants a brief break to stretch their legs, but they all laugh when I start counting down to the beginning of the next session… 10 – 9 – 8 – 7 - … We have a lot of fun.

The beginning of each message I share the three key ingredients for success in any venture: Passion, Vision and Imagination. The message of the importance of what they do in their communities – the service they provide – and the fact that this is more of a career than a job is the foundation of the entire presentation. I cannot express enough the importance of intellectual freedom – a new concept – for this new democracy. I provide specific scenarios of parents and special groups wanting to censor titles, children not being allowed to check out certain books, etc. Trying to explain the concepts of freedom of access and privacy are best taught through examples of potential scenarios. You can tell when the audience “gets it”. A collective light bulb shines bright. I am confident that although they may all feel overwhelmed, they leave with a new confidence and enlarged sense of value for both what they do and their libraries.

As we were leaving the library for lunch, we watched a long line of staff and even security personnel lined up in an assembly line of sorts along the driveway. They were unloading a large truck of books, passing bound bundles to one another. These books – thousands of copies – were donated from a publisher. The publishers always donate books to this library. The library in turn distributes copies to the rural county libraries. I thought it would be easier with some sort of book cart or even hand dolly, but there was something ceremonial about the way the books were being hand carried from the truck into the library – a sign of respect for the gift and the books in general perhaps?

Niku drove Director Zanfir, Anca, my interpreter Joan, and me to “La Neacsu” restaurant in another area of Galati. As we entered, Zanfir happened to see the owner of the restaurant stting outside. We were introduced and then preceded up three flights of solid white marble stairs to the top floor of the establishment. This was a typical Romania restaurant with native dishes. The walls were adorned with wild boar skins, traditional Romanian plates and décor. One wall was a solid woodcarving depicting a rural scene.

The server surmised I was American and brought me a menu with photographs of the dishes. That was very helpful – especially with Anca explaining what each dish was. I chose a crock of white chicken pieces, ham pieces with boiled potatoes in a heavy cream and butter sauce topped with grated cheeses and seared under the broiler to a golden brown. Oh, yum – very rich and delicious. The owner sent up some appetizers and we also toasted with a shot of a traditional Romanian liqueur. Whew… if this was the mild stuff, I shutter to think what the more potent staff was like. We enjoyed hearty conversation and lots of laughs. The Director was interested in everything from budgets of large city libraries in America, to salary ranges, benefits, and retirement pensions. We laughed about so much. He said, "I could make your Fred jeolous by taking you to a romantic dinner." I answered that my Fred was a strong man and he (Zanfir) better be careful! We all laughed. I wonder if Fred's ears were burning? Director Zanfir, when he introduced me, had mentioned cats, dogs, farm, Fred... he had a lot of information about me in his introduction.

We bid each other a fond goodbye. The Director had a car dispatched to transport Joan and him back to the library. We traveled on to Constanta with Monika from Biblionet following in her car.

After that filling lunch, I was ready to nap in the back seat, but tried to keep my eyes open. I did not want to miss a thing. This would be a 3-4 hour drive through the countryside, an old mountain range and on to the Black Sea city of Constanta.

I had been wondering if there was a bridge over the Danube, since I knew we had to cross at some point. My question was answered as we drove onto a ferry. Oh, my. This is different. We backed up into our spot and watched as other vehicals drove on board for the 4:00 p.m. launch across the river. I saw a huge semi truck fully loaded. “He’s not bringing that truck on here, is he?” I thought. Then another truck drove on, “That truck won’t fit, will it?” I wondered. Then, a large, fully loaded tour bus squeezed on. At least I knew how to swim. I got out of the van and planned my escape route in case the unsinkable – I mean unthinkable happened. Anca, Monica and me stood on the side of the main cabin next to the railing. We chatted and laughed and before we new it we were docking on the other side.

The trucks barely made it off, but as cattle funneling through a small opening, we all drove off, single file, and continued on with the journey. Anca and Niku shared that they had never been in this part of the country before. It was quite an adventure. The road was a two-lane country road with many bumps, but still paved and lined. A row of trees were planted on each side, lining the road in a picturesque way. Niku explained that the trees were planted after the 1st World War so airplanes could not land on the roads. Very interesting. That made sense.

We continued to pass more horse wagons, very primitive villages and fields of harvested crops. The mountains in the distance got closer and closer. I learned later, that the homes and/or gates that were painted a bright blue identified the family as Russian in these villages. The blue paint was a distinct mixture and very difficult to duplicate. The local residents were going about their late-afternoon business, many older folks were sitting on benches and just visiting.

As the sun dropped lower and lower in the west, we passed through miles and miles of open land with the mountains rising up to our east. We passed farmers with their wagons and a number of mud huts. Many times there were goat and sheep herds next to the highway. Always there was the lone shepherd or goat herder with his walking stick and his donkey, keeping watch over his flock.

As with the case on the way to Braila, every now and then I saw a huge nest on top of a telephone pole… perched very precariously. “What in the world?” I thought. It was as large, if not larger, than an eagle’s nest and perched on a pole that was like a toothpick. What was this? It was a stork nest. Many of the locals actually help the stork by reinforcing his nest with sticks and wood. I am constantly surprised by what is around the corner. I really want to close my eyes and sleep, but I force them to stay open.

As we get closer to the city, we notice the first modern windmill. And soon we pass what is most definitely a wind farm. Dozens of mills already constructed and others in various stage of construction stand as sentinels on the western hills. The modern world is quickly integrating itself into the rural countryside.

We arrive in the big port city of Constanta at dusk, four hours after we left Galati. The city is bustling. We drive all the way through to the Black Sea, where Niku parks the car and lets us get out and breathe in the sea air before we go to our hotel. Far away we can see the lights of many large ships waiting to come into port.

Our hotel is the French chain, Ibis. An economy hotel that offers value, the Ibis is very modern with not a lot of fluff, but comfortable beds, free Internet, big bath area and large working desk. The air-conditioning works, but I also cracked open my window to smell the sea air. I hear dogs barking… the ever present dogs – that were everywhere along the road to this city. I must have seen thousands of stray dogs so far.

A quick sandwich brought to my room and I fell to sleep almost immediately. Up early now at 2:00 a.m. It is 3:44 now so I will close and post this and go back to bed. I have an early wake-up at 6:00 a.m. More meetings and another digital video conference this morning. PaPa! (Bye, bye)